s1899_4.gif Walking Jacket for Girl from 14 to 16 years, 1899 This is a smart and useful costume for a young lady. It is in dark green coating. The skirt is cut to a gored pattern, and is lined with sateen. The outside is trimmed each side the front breadth, and round the foot 6 inches from the edge with fancy black and silver braid. The smart little jacket, of which we give the pattern, is double- breasted and semi-fitting in the front, but close fitting at the back and side. It is made in the same material as the skirt, making a complete costume. In diagram No.74 is shown the best way ofplacing the pattern on the cloth. Cut out each piece and tack it, machine the seams, open, and paress them thoroughly. A little extra trouble taken in the pressing will be amply repaid by the better appearance it gives the jacket. Cut the collar and revers in double coating and in canvas. Cover the canvas first with coating, turn the edges over the canvas and tack them. Line with coating. Now machine-stitch three or four times along the part of the collar that will stand up; this makes it firm. Cut the velvet exactly the size of made up collar; turn in the edge of velvet, and face outside of collar; the velvet will then come within1/2 inch of the edge of collar. It must be neatly slip-stitched to the coating. Fix the collar firmly to the neck of jacket. Face each side the front with material with an interlining of canvas or muslin the same width as the facing, work buttonholes in the right fronts, on the left sew buttons to correspond, turn up the edge of jacket over a crosswise strip of canvas, trim the outside with fancy braid like the skirt. The lining is next cut, and the seams joined and pressed. Pin the shoulders and under arm seams to the jacket, edges of seams turning in; turn in the edge, slip-stitch over turned up edge of cloth and down the edge of facing, also over the seam joining collar to jacket. The sleeves must be cut 1 1/2 inch longer than required; then after joining the seam, turn up the wrists over a crosswise strip of canvas 3 1/2 inches wide. The lining must be joined and put inside the sleeve, seams facing inside; turn up the wrists, and fell it to within 1/2 inch of the edge of sleeve. Pleat the top of material to fit the armhole, sew it into the armhole of jacket; before sewing, it should be pinned and tried on to see that the front seam is in the right position for the sleeve to set comfortably. The sleeves should be sewn in with thread; when sewn, the lining is drawn up, gathered to fit the armhole, and hemmed over the edges of seam so as to make the armhole neat. Sew a strap of double Italian cloth inside the neck, and the jacket is complete. A velvet tam-o'-shanter hat turned up the left side and trimmed with two gray pen feathers is worn with this costume. 2 yards of coating 48 inches wide, 1 1/2 yard Italian cloth, 1/2 yard velvet, 2 yards braid, and 6 buttons are required for this jacket. If any alteration is needed in the width of sleeve make it on the outer seam, as the set of the sleeve is often very much spoiled by making alterations to the inner seam. To press the seams, get someone to hold one end and hold the other yourself with the left hand, then use the iron with the right. If the cloth is very thick it will be better, however, to press on a wooden roller covered with flannel. The kitchen towel- roller answers admirably for the purpose. ------ brought to you by La Couturière Parisienne (webmistress @marquise.de) http://www.marquise.de Given by Valerie through the pattern exchange programme