s1899_8.gif Walking Jacket for girl from 12 to 14 years of age, 1899 MATERIALS REQUIRED: 1 3/4 yard 50 inches wide, 1 1/4 yard Italian cloth, 3/4 yard canvas, 1/4 yard velvet. This jacket is the most fashonable pattern for young girls; it is suitable to be made in cloth, frieze, tweed, covert coating, or serge to match the skirt, or of some colour such as black, brown, dark blue, or fawn, that can be worn with any dress. Our model is a rich shade of red cloth to match the skirt with which it is worn, the turn-over collar being faced with black velvet. The pattern consists of 6 pieces. In diagram No.61 we show the best way of placing the pattern on 50 inch cloth. The pattern of the facing for inside of fronts is shown in the diagram, but is not given in pattern, it being cut exactly like the front as far as the dotted line in diagram of front. It is 6 inches wide at the waist, and is the whole length of front. It is important not to turn the different pieces of pattern up and down on the cloth, even though it would enable you to cut the jacket out of less cloth, as there is often a difference in the shading of up and down even in plain cloth. The centre of back is cut without a seam. The revers are cut in one with the fronts, but the turn-over collar is separate. Machine the seams open, and press them thoroughly. A little extra trouble takin in the pressing will be amply repaid by the better appearance it gives the jacket. Cut the collar in double cloth and in canvas. Cover the cnvas first with cloth, turn the edges over the canvas, and tack them. Line with cloth. Now machine-stitche three or four times along the part of the collar that will stand up; this makes it firm. Cut the velvet exactly the size of made up collar; turn in the edge of velvet, and face the outside of collar; the velvet will then come within 1/2 inch of the edge of collar. It must be neatly slip-stitched to the cloth. Leave the straight edge that joins to the jacket unsewn. Now set the edge of neck of jacket in between the lining and cloth, stitch them neatly together, being careful that the collar exactly meets the revers at each end. Turn in the edge, and machine- stitch all round. If a thin cloth is used the edge should be turned in over a crosswise strip of canvas. Face each side the front with material with an interlining of canvas the same width as the facing. Machine-stitch the revers on the facing side 1/2 inch from the edge. A flap of cloth 2 inches wide is sewn under the edge of right side, this is to work the buttonholes in. It should be sewn down by the edge nearest arm, also at top and bottom, and between every other buttonhole. A line of machine-stitching is worked along the edge of this flap on the right side. The buttons to correspond are sewn on the left side. The lining is next cut, and the seams are joined and pressed. Pin the shoulders and underarm seams to the jacket, edges of seams turning in; turn in the edge, slip-stitch over turned up edge of cloth and down the edge of facing, also over the seam joining collar to jacket. The coat sleeves must be cut 1 1/2 inch longer than required; then after joining the seam, turn up the wrists over a crosswise strip of canvas 3 1/2 inches wide. The lining must be joined and put inside the sleeve, seams facing inside; turn up the wrists, and fell it to within 1/2 inch of the edge of sleeve. Pleat the top of material to fit the armhole, sew it into the armhole of jacket; before sewing, it should be pinned and tried on to see that the front seam is in the right position for the sleeve to set comfortably. The sleeves should be sewn in with thread; when sewn, the lining is drawn up, gathered to fit the armhole, and hemmed over the edges of seam so as to make the armhole neat. Another plan is to pleat the lining and material together to fit the armhole; sew them in together, cut the edges even and bind with a crosswise strip of Italian cloth. If it is desired to put in a pocket, it should be done before the lining is fixed; an incision must be made in the sides of jacket, a little shorter than pocket-flap; make the pocket of lining, and sew it in the opening, leaving the turnings on the wrong side; machine-stitch round on the right side 1/4 inch from the edge of opening, then sew on the flaps, which are of double cloth faced with velvet, like the collar. For girls' jackets it is, however, much better to put on the flaps without having the pockets, as the jacket is so soon put out of shape when the pockets are stuffed with the thousand and one things that schoolgirls love to carry about. Sew a strap of double Italian cloth inside the nectk, and the coat is complete. The hat worn with this costume is of fine black felt, trimmed with silk of the same colour as the cloth. ------ zur Verfügung gestellt von La Couturière Parisienne (webmistress @marquise.de) http://www.marquise.de von Valerie im Rahmen des Schnittaustauschs gespendet